Shan khauk hswè (Shan noodles) Period COrigin theory CVerified

Shan khauk hswè is a rice-noodle dish native to the highland Shan State of eastern Myanmar. Soft rice noodles are paired with a light chicken broth carrying a hint of tomato sourness, and finished with fried aromatics and greens. It is now a fixture in eating houses across Myanmar, but its name records where the bowl came from. The Burmese word khauk hswè is borrowed from the Shan khauk hswoi, meaning literally 'to fold and to pull'—the handwork of folding and drawing out the rice dough into noodles. The dish's own name quietly tells you that the noodle itself came from Shan country.

The Shan plateau, where the dish is set, is a land where the market has long stood at the center of daily life. Rotating five-day markets move among the villages, and farmers and traveling traders meet to exchange grain, vegetables, and cloth. In that bustle, a quick bowl of noodles was indispensable to seller and buyer alike. Shan rice noodles belong to this lineage of everyday food born of the market and the caravan route.

The tomato sourness dissolved into the broth is one of the elements that sets the dish's character. The tomato is a New World crop, and the earliest record of it on Burmese ground comes from Francis Mason's natural history Burmah: Its People and Natural Productions (Rangoon, 1860), which notes that the tomato 'abounds in Ava'—the Burmese kingdom's territory upriver—and is grown on a modest scale in gardens on the British side; the plant list at the back of the book carries the species under its Burmese name. Only once the red of the tomato had reached the Shan highlands and dissolved as acidity into the noodle broth did the bowl we now know as Shan khauk hswè take its present form.

Shan State sits in the middle of a mountain trading zone that runs on into northern Thailand, northern Laos, and Yunnan. Across this belt, which the modern lines of national borders cut through only crudely, the habit of slurping rice noodles spread as one continuous thing. Shan khauk hswè comes into focus only when it is placed within that unbroken noodle culture.

From whose hands did this bowl come? Two views stand side by side over the origin of Shan khauk hswè, and for now there is no deciding stroke in favor of either.

One holds that it grew up as a native Shan dish. Records of Shan noodle cookery describe it—hand-cut rice noodles in a light tomato broth—as the everyday food of Shan caravaneers and farmers, spreading from across Shan State to the whole of Myanmar. What supports this view is the trace left in the dish's name. Burmese khauk hswè is a loan from the Shan khauk hswoi, meaning the handwork of folding and pulling the noodles—a different root from the Thai khao soi, which means 'to cut rice.' That the very word for noodle-making was received from Shan lends weight to the idea that the dish rose from Shan soil.

The other sees it as one strand of a wider trading-zone culture. Across Shan State, northern Thailand, northern Laos, and Yunnan, a family of closely related rice noodles called khao soi is distributed. As the thread linking them, one account credits the Muslim traders of Yunnan—called Chin Haw in Thailand and Panthay in Burma—with carrying noodle food along the caravan routes. By the mid-nineteenth century they controlled the caravan trade linking Yunnan, Burma, Thailand, and Laos. After the Qing suppressed the Panthay uprising in the 1850s to 1870s, many took refuge in Shan and Wa States, founding towns such as Panglong, and in the teak-trade era of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries they are said to have carried noodle food into the northern regions. That the Lao khao soi, with its tomato-and-minced-meat broth, closely resembles the Shan version also suggests this trading-zone connection.

Was it born as a distinctly Shan dish, or is it noodle food from the Yunnan trading zone that took root in the land? The sources are still too thin to separate the two, and no firm conclusion has been reached. How far back the present form, with its tomato broth, can be followed on Burmese ground hangs in the same suspense. The earliest description of the fruit set down in Burma is Mason's, in 1860, and no contemporary account of the tomato's earlier arrival in Burma has come to light. What Mason set down, moreover, was tomatoes growing in Burmese fields and gardens, not tomatoes simmered into the broth of a Shan noodle bowl. From whose hands the first bowl came remains open between the two stories.