All dishes / 北米
Hamburger Period BOrigin theory DVerified
Some fields (dish name, region and gates) are shown from the Japanese-edition data.
America's signature dish. Several towns step forward to claim they were the first to serve it, but which was the true birthplace cannot be verified from contemporary records. That no one can pin down who was first is itself the conclusion about this dish's origins.
The three gates
- Ingredient-supply gate
- 挽き肉+バン
- Cooking-technique gate
- 都市労働者・博覧会・ダイナー
- Venue gate
- 屋台・食堂
Overview
The hamburger we know today—ground beef, cooked and slid into a bun—took shape in the United States in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. The Hamburg-style ground-beef steak, popular in nineteenth-century Germany, was carried across the Atlantic by immigrants, and in America the habit of putting it in a bun took hold.
Workers pouring into the cities wanted food that was cheap and quick to fill them. A ground-beef patty in a bun could be eaten standing, in a short break. World's fairs and other places where crowds gathered, the corner diner, the saloon and the street cart carried this food to a broad clientele and sent it across the country.
Uniform ground beef became cheap and plentiful only after the mechanical meat grinder came into wide use. The hand-cranked grinder was devised in mid-nineteenth-century Germany, spread through North America after the 1876 Philadelphia Centennial Exhibition, and developed into powered machines in the 1880s. Only once soft, cheap ground beef flooded the street corners could the ground-beef sandwich become an everyday food of the masses. The anecdotes claiming to be the origin cluster between 1885 and 1904—exactly the years when the grinder came into wide circulation.
How we know
Connecticut, Texas, Wisconsin, Oklahoma—town after town claims to be the birthplace of the hamburger. Each has its inventor and its tale of the first plate, and none will give ground. Charlie Nagreen of Seymour, Wisconsin (1885); Fletcher Davis of Texas (said to have won a following at the 1904 St. Louis World's Fair); Oscar Bilby of Oklahoma, who claims the first served on a bun (1891); and Louis' Lunch of Connecticut (1895–1900).
Yet for none of these tales is there any independent, contemporary record that can confirm it as the first. If anything, something recognizable as a hamburger appears in print earlier than the local claims. A Texas newspaper of 1894 carries 'hamburger steak sandwiches' (a saloon's bill of fare); the phrase 'hamburger sandwich' appears in the Chicago Daily Tribune of 1896. Whatever the truth of the origin legends, the food already existed at the turn of the century as fare of the street cart, the fair, and the saloon.
Louis' Lunch in Connecticut claims to have served the first in 1900, and it is said that in 2000 the Library of Congress recognized it as the originator. But that recognition was an honorific secured through the lobbying of a local member of Congress, not a matter of contemporary records bearing out the fact—and the earliest appearance in print, the 1894 Texas paper, is earlier still. The claim to a single 'first' remains without independent support.
The food historian Josh Ozersky, in his 'The Hamburger: A History' (Yale University Press, 2008), holds that none of the individual inventors' claims can be verified, and argues that the established view is precisely that no single first inventor can be identified. In Smithsonian magazine's reporting, the matter comes to rest on the same phrase: 'Maybe all of them.'
So this article sets the several claims side by side without erasing any, and shows that the true origin cannot be verified. If Margherita is the case where records rejected an invented origin tale, the hamburger is the case where no origin tale can be settled—and that is the answer.
The full set of origin theories and the detailed verification log — traceable all the way to their sources — are available on the Japanese edition.
See the full origin theories and verification log (Japanese) →