All dishes / 中東・北アフリカ

Tagine Period COrigin theory CVerified

Morocco · Established 1300–1600

Some fields (dish name, region and gates) are shown from the Japanese-edition data.

記章(DB由来の作図・装飾/監修・認証ではない)|起源説確度C・検証済CEmblem (data-derived illustration, decorative)

Tagine is spoken of as the very emblem of Moroccan cooking, yet the dish and its name have travelled separate roads. The conical earthenware pot is rooted in the soil of the Maghreb, while the word ṭājin reaches back to the eastern Mediterranean — and the notion of an age-old, purely Moroccan invention wavers before the sources of the eastern Arab world.

タジンの実写写真(モロッコ(マラケシュ)のタジンの完成品。円錐鍋タジンの素焼き土鍋(テラコッタの器)に盛られた状態で供膳(ジャガイモ/カブ・オリーブ・トマト・香草)。前回却下『鍋(タジン)が映っていてほしい』を解消(前回は平皿盛り)。)
実写(装飾) 出典: Wikimedia Commons(Tajine (30443155).jpeg)(CC BY・Mohamed Anarouze, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons)

The three gates

Ingredient-supply gate
羊肉・オリーブ・レモン・香辛料はいずれもマグリブ在来/旧大陸。新大陸食材に依存せず物理的下限は緩い
Cooking-technique gate
円錐形の素焼き土鍋(タジン)による少水分・低温長時間の蒸し煮。律速は鍋という調理技術
Venue gate
家庭・遊牧民の野営調理から都市の食文化へ。木炭/熾火での据え置き調理

Overview

Tagine is a Moroccan dish in which mutton, olives, and preserved lemons are steamed slowly over very little water in an earthenware pot with a conical lid — the pot itself is called a tagine. It goes back to the medieval Maghreb, showing itself by the late Middle Ages at the latest and settling in during the early modern period. Just when its present form was fixed cannot be narrowed to a single point, and the certainty of its date stays middling.

The heart of the dish lies inside that conical lid. Steam rises, cools on the slope of the lid, and drips back down, circling through the pot; so even with little water the meat and vegetables cook moist and tender. It is a well-considered vessel for cooking long and slow while sparing water in a dry land.

The mutton, olives, lemons, and spices are all ingredients long present in the soil of the Maghreb and the Old World. Tagine takes its shape from cooking these local ingredients in that distinctive pot. Spices and preserved lemons carried over from the cooking of al-Andalus and the Abbasid world were added, enriching the outline of its flavour.

Trace who cooked it, and tagine begins in the household and in the cooking of the nomadic Berber camp. Charcoal or embers, a pot set over them, a long slow fire — plain cooking. In time it spread to the tables of the cities and took root as an everyday food of the Berber and Arab common people of the Maghreb.

How we know

What makes tagine's history interesting is that the dish and the name of the dish have come down separate roads.

One is the road of the vessel and the manner of cooking. The conical, two-part red earthenware pot is a native vessel of the Berbers of the Anti-Atlas mountains in the Maghreb, and appears to have developed as a portable camp oven. Cooking slowly over little water is likewise rooted in the stews of this land. Gil Marks, author of an encyclopedia of Jewish food, places this two-part red-clay pot at an Anti-Atlas origin, and Britannica too records a Berber and nomadic origin overlaid with the influence of Andalusian and Abbasid spices.

The other is the road of the name, and this one runs east to the Mediterranean. The word ṭājin (tagine) goes back to the Arabic ṭājin, a shallow earthenware pan, and further back to the Classical Greek τάγηνον (tágēnon), a frying or flat pan. In the scholarly literature this Greek derivation is predominant, while an alternative from the Persian tahchin remains a minority view. The name and the concept of the stew appear in eastern Arab writing. The thirteenth-century Aleppo cookbook Kitāb al-Wuṣla survives as a primary source in the critical English translation of Charles Perry (Scents and Flavors), and ṭājin appears in its account of stewing. Maxime Rodinson, in a 1949 paper, read the manuscripts of such medieval Arab cookbooks with scholarly rigour.

Here a long-repeated tale comes undone: that tagine, dish and vessel both, is an age-old, purely Moroccan invention with no tie to the east. Rodinson held that when similar dishes appear in both east and west, one should first suspect a parallel origin in a shared Graeco-Roman parent. Tagine fits this. The name runs from the eastern τάγηνον into the eastern Arab world; the vessel and the manner of cooking are native to the Maghreb — two separate lineages met, rather than a single land producing the whole on its own.

Even so, the ṭājin of the medieval east meant a shallow flat pan and its stew, a different vessel from the conical pot of the modern Maghreb. That the name appears early in eastern writing does not mean the conical pot itself originated there. Because the two axes — name in the east, vessel native to the west — stand side by side, the origin cannot be settled on a single line, and its certainty stays middling.

The full set of origin theories and the detailed verification log — traceable all the way to their sources — are available on the Japanese edition.

See the full origin theories and verification log (Japanese) →

Related dishes

Similar dishes Overlapping ingredient, period or region