Mohinga Period COrigin theory CVerified

Mohinga is a Burmese noodle dish: a thick fish broth drawn from catfish, poured over rice noodles and thickened with the tender core of the banana stem and with chickpea flour. Eaten as breakfast and as street food, it spread into the cities in the modern era until it came to be called a national dish.

The catfish and rice noodles at its heart are both old ingredients of this land, on everyday tables from early on in a country rich in rivers and paddy fields. The banana-stem core and the chickpea flour used to thicken it are likewise long-familiar materials. The reputed birthplace is Lower Burma, the Ayeyarwady Delta, where fresh fish is easy to come by; the form raised there leads into the lineage now called "country-style mohinga." The food writer Naomi Duguid, in Burma: Rivers of Flavor (2012), also records that slightly different versions have been made across the regions of Burma.

Try to trace mohinga's origin and you run first into the thinness of the record. Search the royal records and court cookbooks of the Konbaung dynasty and no formal recipe for mohinga turns up. The historian Khin Maung Nyunt, professor of history at Mandalay University and once director-general of Myanmar's Historical Research Department, takes that very absence as a clue and concludes that, before colonization, mohinga was a dish of the common people rather than of the court.

The oldest reliably traceable mention in writing is the word "mont di," used by the poet U Min in the latter part of the reign of King Bagyidaw (r. 1819-1837), which places it in the late 1820s to the 1830s. Next comes the court poet U Ponnya (1812-1867), whose verse of the mid-nineteenth century sings of the dish. Neither is the year the dish was born; each is a scene it reached after being eaten among ordinary people for a long time.

There are also stories that reach for a far older origin. Some food blogs look for the shape of mohinga in the chronicles or oral traditions of the Pyu city-states (second century BC), or in noodle stews of the Bagan period (849-1297). But the contemporary chronicles or archaeological reports that would support these claims are nowhere to be found. What can actually be traced back is only the age of the materials, the fermenting of rice and the noodle-making tools of the Pyu period; there is no record that the dish called mohinga existed in pre-modern times. The firm written footprints reach back only to the early nineteenth century of the Bagyidaw reign, and the exact year of origin before that stands open, for want of sources.